Boquillas, Mexico: Part 2 — David Robert Farmerie

For those traveling to Boquillas, from Big Bend National Park, they make their way through the immigration station that is located within the park. As one exits through the out door, they walk down a dirt path that meanders through a stand of trees. At the far end is the Rio Grande River. On the other side of the river, which one can easily see, there are always a group of men - and a few row boats. Just simply wave your hand and motion for them to come and get you. A man will row is boat across, help you in, and row you the the Mexican side of the river. There you will pay you fee: $5.00 USD, in cash. That provides you with a round trip boat ride.

Adrian rows the boat from the Mexico side of the river, to the U.S. side to pick up passengers for Boquillas.

Then you will have option to ‘walk’ into town - which is about one mile along a rutted dirt road; or you can hire a truck to drive you into town. But theist alternative - in my opinion, is to opt for the Burro ride. Both the truck, and the Burro are an additional $5.00 USD, in cash, for a round trip ticket.

Phillipe parks his mule after bring a tourist into town. The mule will remain there until it is needed for the trip back to the boat.

You will also be asked if you want a guide. You can get by without one, but if you have the means, why not support their economy. In my experience, when I have asked the guides how much their fee is, they simply say “what ever you want”. Be generous, please. As an FYI, I use Philippe whenever I can.

Jose Falconi’s Restaurant in Boquillas - located on the left as one enters into the village.

In the village of Boquillas you will need to check into Mexican immigration. It will be helpful if you can communicate in Spanish. But if not, you’re still get by. At times there is also an “ Entry Fee” , which, as I recall was $5.00 USD, in cash. As one enters the village, there are two restaurants - one on either side of the main road. Both are equally good, but my preference is the one on the left. My suggestion is that you treat yourself to two meals, while in Boquillas - thereby sampling both places.

Walking along the main street there are vendors at nearly every house, and each vendor is selling the same thing: fabrics, and wire animals are the main items. About half way down the main street, on the right, is a small green house, where Pablo lives. He sells the best wire animals. He also sells rocks, which are a great deal - except, they will be confiscated by U.S. Immigration when you return to the U.S..

Pablo, sitting on his porch, making wire animals to be sold to the passing tourists. This is Pablo’s only source of income.

Boquillas is a charming village, albeit severely depressed, economically. But there is no crime - that I have ever experienced, or even heard of; and the people are welcoming. one can walk through the entire village in about an hour - a bit more if you want to browse the various vendors. Depending on the season, Boquillas can be hot - as there is no shade.

For me, I also find a great romance to Boquillas. It is a place where time stood still. It is a glimpse into the authentic rural Mexico - and again, without the crime. Depending on the time of year, one may see matresses laying in the front yards of people’s homes. They are not thrown out as junk - as one may see in parts of rural America; but rather, they are there for sleeping. At certain times of the year, the daytime temperature get so high that the houses cannot cool down inside. So people will sleep outside, under the stars, on their mattresses.

The scene along the main road through Boquillas, Mexico

There is a school, a church, and a small medical clinic in the village. A few years ago Boquillas installed a small array of solar panels, providing them with some electricity. The supply is not enough, however, to provide them with power 24/7.

Boquillas is a destination for lovers (as the saying goes), but in this case, I belive, it is more for the lovers of adventure, and deep geographical romance - like living in a Mexica version of the movie Casablanca.
There are two ways to experience this very special place: one is to experience it as a tourist. The other, and the one that I highly recommend, is to experience it as the adventurer, and the hopeless romantic. Find your Hemingway, or even your Indiana Jones within yourself. Disengage from any preconceived notions that you may have, and enter into this adventure completely naked - emotionally that is; and if you do, you will return forever changed - for the better.

_David